The Hanford Reach is a section of the Columbia River that
flows through the Hanford Nuclear Reservation in central Washington State. It is the last non-tidal, free-flowing
section (ie, unencumbered by a dam) of the Columbia River flowing within the sovereign
borders of the United States of America.
Pretty Country |
The river is left here, unmolested, for one reason only –
the Hanford Nuclear Reservation.
Originally built during World War II as part of the
Manhattan Project, the Hanford site was intended for nuclear research and plutonium
generation.
The plutonium used in both the Trinity test site bomb, and
the “Fat Man” bomb dropped on Nagasaki, Japan, was created at Hanford.
The reservation created for this facility is huge – thousands
of acres. 586 square miles of desert
scrub land, receiving no more than 10 inches of rain in an entire year.
The radiation is not why it's all brown |
Yes, dear reader, Washington State, the Evergreen State,
known for its rain and its green landscapes, is actually mostly desert…
I grew up in the Tri-Cities, which abut the southeast corner
of the reservation. Present day
population is about 230,000 people, and the main industry there, other than
manning the nuclear reservation, is agriculture. In fact, the Columbia Valley, in which the
Tri-Cities sit, is fast becoming one of the nations most prestigious and well-known
viticultural areas, meaning they make wine there.
The entire valley is studded with wineries,
so wifey and I spend at least a couple weekends a year there running around
restocking our wine cellars and pretending we’re not getting drunk from the wine
tasting. When I grew up there, though,
there was a sort of unsettling knowledge that, even though we lived out in the
middle of nowhere, if things ever got sporty enough between the US and Russia
that the buttons got pushed, we’d be the first to be incinerated, because of
the Hanford site just ten miles outside of town.
Paradoxically, given the site is the most contaminated
nuclear site in America, and is only eclipsed in contamination by disaster sites
like Chernobyl, is also one of the most preserved natural sites in the American
West.
Like this... |
And this... |
And this... |
Unmolested after the 1940’s due to the top secret nature of
the Manhattan Project (less than ten people on the site during construction at
any given time actually knew that they were building a nuclear testing
facility, out of 44,000) and the huge area of land around it as a buffer zone,
the Hanford site boasts one of the last untouched upland steppe areas left in
our nation. There was never any grazing,
farming, or anything other than hunting activities by Native Americans prior to
the creation of the reservation. So
wildlife runs free. It is one of the last bastions of the Sage Grouse in the
State of Washington. Much of the land
has been converted into the Saddle Mountain Wildlife Preserve, in an effort to
make sure that this ecological treasure is not lost as the Hanford site is
slowly decommissioned and closed down.
This paradoxical ecological effect includes the river,
itself. Used for cooling water for the
reactors, the river was included in the exclusion zone for the site. No dams were built on this stretch, since
during the golden age of dam building on the Columbia (1935 through about 1965)
the site was off limits and top secret.
So the river was left unmolested, and as a result, we have the last
stretch of non-tidal river left in the States that is not controlled by
dams.
Sigh... |
It also happens to be one of the most productive areas to
fish for salmon on the entire river.
You see, the Columbia River is huge. The average outflow of the river at the Reach
is 118,000 cubic feet of water per second.
There is about 8 gallons in a cubic foot, so a quick, dirty conversion
says that’s nearing one million gallons a second of discharge. Average.
It can reach as much as 550,000 cubic feet of water per
second, or about 4.4 million cubic feet per second during runoff.
What I'm trying to say is that it's really, really big |
So when you put a dam in this river, the reservoirs backed
up behind it are massive. And when you’ve
got a massive area of water to cover, your productivity will be lower. If a thousand salmon pass through an area in
one day, you’ve got a lot better chance of catching them when they are
channeled up in a narrower section of river, than when they are spread out over
an expansive reservoir.
Enter the Hanford Reach, a narrow, shallow, fast flowing
section of river, that channels all of the fish into a river only a couple of
hundred yards wide, at most, instead of a couple miles wide.
I fished there all weekend, and caught some salmon. The water is shallow, so I was glad to have
my jet boat. We boated some nice
fish. Here is a picture of my fishing
buddy with his Columbia River Chinook.
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